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The battle for the Parthenon marbles

Following the success of the newly opened Acropolis Museum, Greek officials are more determined than ever to retrieve their missing heritage. Helena Smith reports from Athens

For as long as most Athenians can remember, the intersection of Makriyianni and Dionysiou Areopagitou streets was a nondescript place, the preserve of those bent on illicitly parking their cars on the narrow alleys of the historic Plaka district.

Nine days after the opening of the New Acropolis Museum, this little slice of Athens at the foot of the Acropolis rock is a place transformed. Where vehicles once clogged the streets, there are street cafes, people and performance artists – Greeks such as Anita Papachristou who, like a modern-day pilgrim, makes a point of dropping in to behold the behemoth that looks set to become Greece’s 21st-century shrine. “We waited for it long enough,” she says, looking up at the honey-coloured Parthenon marble, illuminated along the length and breadth of the museum’s upper floor. “And now that it’s here, I can say it’s been worth waiting for.”

The smell of cement still pervades the corridors and stairwells of the three-storey, €130m museum but neither that, nor the scouring Athenian heat, has stopped it being a sell-out success. At what will go down as the museum’s first post-opening press conference (held in a leather-seated auditorium in the bowels of the building) yesterday, Greek officials could scarcely contain their excitement at the “scandalous” number of ticket sales, both at home and abroad.

In the first five days, some 55,000 people rushed to snap up tickets that until the end of 2009 will sell at €1 a piece. Internet interest has also been unexpectedly high, helping to boost the sense that with this new showcase, Athens is on to a winner to retrieve the Parthenon sculptures from the British Museum. “Altogether, 90,822 tickets have been sold,” said the Greek culture minister Antonis Samaras. “From America to Mongolia, Australia to Nepal, internet users have logged into the [museum's] site. I, personally, have received letters of thanks from ordinary people in China. The interest has been phenomenal.”

It’s been more than 30 years in the making, and many Greeks thought they would never see the museum rise from the archaeologically rich but controversial ground on which it now stands beneath the ancient Acropolis. Politicians with an eye to posterity, starting with Melina Mercouri – the late actress who initiated the campaign for the return of the marbles in 1981– were more optimistic. By the time the partly EU-funded building was under construction, Greek officials were arguing as never before that the museum would reinvigorate the movement to win back those parts of the Parthenon frieze that Lord Elgin “hacked, prized and looted” from the monument more than 200 years ago.

Yesterday, as they hit back at the British Museum‘s longstanding argument that Athens has nowhere decent enough to house its Golden Age Wonders, Greek confidence had never been higher. There were not only the numbers, or the polls (including the Guardian’s this week), that proved most Britons were now in favour of the contested masterpieces returning to Greece, there was also the “moral argument”, said Samaras. “The museum has created a strength, a power in its own right for their return,” he added, describing the demand for their repatriation as “universal” and ruling out that Athens would resort to the courts to retrieve the sculptures from Britain.

“It is a question of ethics. Times have changed. Museums including the [New York] Met have returned disputed artworks to their country of origin.” If anything, say Greek classicists, the new museum’s popularity has finally proved that people want to see the treasures not only in context, beneath the temple where they were carved, but as a “narrative whole”, depicting the uninterrupted story of the 106-metre-long Panathenaic procession. In place of those pieces currently held in London, Greek archaeologists have placed crude, alabaster white plastercasts acquired from the British Museum in 1840. In the unforgiving attic light that filters through the museum’s huge glass panes, they stand out like eyesores.

So, is Europe’s longest-running cultural row about to get even more bitter? The Greeks made a point of keeping the museum’s opening ceremony low-key to avoid “contaminating” an otherwise joyous event. Little was made of the fact that only two trustees from the British Museum flew in for the bonanza, even though international debate over ownership of the marbles was revived on the eve of the inauguration, following talk of Britain loaning the marbles to Athens.

But now Greek officials say the gloves are off and, yes, it will get ugly. “We are no longer willing to play the nice guys,” says a senior member of the culture ministry, who is masterminding the government’s strategy on the issue. “The British Museum has lost the argument. It is now on the defensive. In a year’s time, I can assure you, it will want to give the marbles back.”

If the marbles are not returned home soon, private Greek investors apparently have hinted that they will build a Madame Tussauds-like museum down the road, with Lord Elgin hacking the sculptures from the monument as its main exhibit. Presently, the story is doing the rounds as a joke. But the bets are on that it may well happen. And if it does, it will be no laughing matter for the British Museum.

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Jeff Koons at the Serpentine Gallery

Preview works from Jeff Koons’s Popeye series, exploring themes of consumerism and sexuality, on the eve of his first solo show in Britain


Peter Randall-Page sculptures

Preview an exhibition of ghostly geological sculptures by Peter Randall-Page opened to the public at Yorkshire Sculpture Park in Wakefield


Art meets nature in Norway

An ambitious series of stunning architectural designs is turning the spotlight on Norway’s natural beauty. Gwladys Fouché takes a tour

See some of the designs in our gallery

I am admiring an icy-blue river framed by majestic snow-capped mountains – but would have easily missed the spot were it not for the stunning structure I am standing on.

From the road the metallic viewing platform looks like a snake zigzagging through the trees. It was so intriguing when I passed it that I stopped to take a closer look. Forty-five minutes later I am still here, awed by this architectural gem and how it fits in with the natural landscape.

Situated in a remote valley in northwest Norway, the Gudbrandsjuvet platform is part of a project to revamp 18 tourist highways across the country. Norway’s national road agency is spending a staggering £1bn until 2012 on the project and has so far commissioned over 45 architecture and landscaping firms to come up with designs for panoramic viewpoints, picnic spots, rest areas and other installations.

Some designs are spectacular. A wooden promenade in the Lofoten islands has quirky angles as if it were a sheet of paper that had been crumpled and smoothed. A bright yellow rest house for cyclists, also in the Lofoten, juts from the flatlands where it is set. And then there’s Snøhetta’s Eggum rest area, with public toilets so cool you will never want to leave.

The most impressive of the structures is perhaps the project at Stegastein in south-central Norway, where architects Todd Saunders and Tommie Wilhelmsen have created an astonishing wooden observatory that seemingly plunges into the Aurland fjord.

“We wanted it to stand out and be very visual,” says Wilhelmsen. “It’s the vision of young architects who wanted to have fun.”

Other projects are more discreet. A rest area on the Helgeland coast in northern Norway features a minimalist stairway leading to the sea. A picnic spot in the Lofoten archipelago consists of groups of rectangular slabs of stones.

Similarly discreet, in its own way, is the Gudbransjuvet platform designed by Oslo-based duo Jan Olav Jensen and Børre Skodvin. With its dark shades of grey and rust, the installation’s tones mix easily with the background. “We wanted the colour to blend in with the landscape, so that the platform is not so present, not so easy to see,” says Jensen.

Subtlety was also important when it came to sounds. “We put openings in the floor of the platform so that you can really experience how forceful the sound of the water is. If it had been a closed bridge, it would not have been so powerful,” Jensen adds. Through these same openings, visitors can observe small details of the landscape, such as a rock, some moss or the flow of the water.

On the other side of the Valldøla river, Jensen and Skodvin have designed a rest area and service centre due for completion this autumn, at the same time as several other projects along the Geiranger tourist road.

On this highway, the jewel in the crown will probably be the panorama viewpoint at Trollstigen (the Troll Ladder). A 30-minute drive from Alstad, this breathtaking spot is where a snow-covered mountain plateau, dotted with soaring peaks, opens out on to a ravine and, further away, a gorgeous fjord. Currently under construction, a sleek, minimalist platform advances into the void. The view is so stunning that I feel slightly dizzy and retreat quickly to firmer ground. The architecture may attract your attention but it’s the Norwegian nature that takes your breath away.

* More information at turistveg.no

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Not just the king of kitsch

Jeff Koons is a mega-artist, rivalled only by Damien Hirst in commercial success and fame. He is also underrated as a fantastic chronicler of the modern world. As a major new exhibition opens in London, he talks to Jonathan Jones

It is 1988 and Michael Jackson sits surrounded by golden flowers, in golden clothes, hugging close to him his pet chimpanzee, Bubbles. People walk around him and gawp. They don’t know if they should laugh or feel creeped out or simply admire an innocent homage to genius.

This porcelain sculpture created by Jeff Koons was part of a series that raised him from being an artist known only by other artists to a celebrity in his own right. The series called Banality brought him the fame he had craved through the 1980s, since he first came from Pennsylvania to New York and supported himself in various ways, including dealing in commodities, while exhibiting vacuum cleaners in illuminated vitrines. In a photograph taken to advertise the exhibition, a young Koons poses with a class of small children, chalk in hand, a beatific smile on his face. On the blackboard he has written “Exploitthe masses” and “Banality as saviour”. The other works included Ushering in Banality, a carved wooden polychrome group of two angels and a tracksuited boy tending a pig with a green ribbon round its neck; a porcelain figure of Leonardo da Vinci’s Saint John the Baptist clutching a pig; and a statue of two grinning idiots nursing a row of blue puppies.

The art of Jeff Koons creates a world beyond taste. It rubs the least respectable mass-cultural artefacts into the noses of people brought up to think art is about the good, the true and the lofty. Two decades after he gave the world Banality, I meet him at London’s Serpentine Gallery. It is the eve of his exhibition, Popeye Series, which stars the famous spinach-eating sailor and an inflatable lobster. The king of kitsch has never looked more kingly than he does now. Jeff Koons in 2009 is a mega-artist, a business artist, rivalled in commercial success and fame only by his friend Damien Hirst – “I’ve always felt very close to people like Damien, the Chapmans, Sarah Lucas.” Unsurprisingly, as they are all visibly influenced by his work.

He employs more than 100 people in his New York studio, and before the markets crashed was selling individual works for more than $20m. That figure was cut in half in his most recent sales, but he doesn’t seem too rattled, and with good reason; Koons aged 54 – however many insults his critics hurl – is treated with increasing respect, and even reverence, by museums. In 2008 alone he had a retrospective at the Art Institute of Chicago, a big exhibition on the Museum Island in Berlin and a show at the Palace of Versailles. Tate Modern, meanwhile, has opened a remarkable room of his works that form part of the new national collection donated by his former dealer Anthony d’Offay – “I think what Anthony did was really very generous.”

And yet it hasn’t been as smooth a rise as the glittering reflective edifice of today’s Koons corporation might suggest. After Banality, he wondered what to do next.

“I just felt like I became an art star with my Banality show,” Koons tells me. “I’ll add another little star on my shoulder” – he found himself thinking – “and I’ll be a film star. But what’s the easiest way into film? To make, like, a porn film. So I thought, OK I’ll make this billboard as if I’m starring in a movie, and it’ll star myself and that woman that I saw in this magazine, this Cicciolina.”

La Cicciolina is the working name of Hungarian-born porn star Ilona Staller, whose fame in Italy in the 1980s and 90s led to her being elected as an MP and later founding her own Party of Love. It wasn’t her politics that Koons was drawn to, however, when he chanced upon a picture of her in a magazine. He promptly turned it into a sculpture of a woman lying in bubble bath being admired by a pig and two penguins.

He and Staller never did make a porn film. What emerged instead from their meeting was a series of sculptures and photographs portraying them having sex in many positions, settings and costumes.

It was called Made in Heaven and, in my opinion, was his greatest work. It was, says Koons, about “removing guilt and shame. I saw the Masaccio painting in Florence” – Masaccio’s 15th century picture of Adam and Eve being cast out of paradise in the Brancacci Chapel – “and I was very moved by it; you know you see the guilt and shame that they’re feeling, Adam and Eve.” He wanted to create the answer to this painting – “a body of work that is kind of about after the fall, but all of this guilt and shame is removed”.

To create Made in Heaven he borrowed all the trappings of Staller’s own art. “I hired her and I used her same photographer, the same place where they developed the film. I wanted her to wear the same costumes, the same backdrops, because everything was a ready-made.”

Koons is fascinated by sex – it keeps coming into our conversation, in a conversation about beauty for instance. “If I think of the word beauty, I think of a vagina”, he replies. “I think of the vaginal – personally. That’s what comes to mind for me, or Praxiteles’ sculpture, the ass … ” The ass he’s referring to is that of the Venus of Knidos, carved by the ancient Greek sculptor, Praxiteles, and displayed in a temple that allowed pilgrims to view the goddess of love from all angles. Classical writers tell that enthusiastic beholders stained the marble statue with their ejaculations. And this is a clue as to why he’s keen on sex, as an artist. Eroticism has always been the territory par excellence where lofty ideals are betrayed by basic physical drives: where the beautiful becomes banal. This is why it made sense for Koons to explore pornography as art – because when we lust we are all Jeff Koons.

Staller, however, was not the ready-made object he originally paid for. At first it was bliss. They married. The lovemaking depicted in Made in Heaven bore fruit. But in December 1994, after their son Ludwig was born, they divorced. When I ask if he thinks people understand the images in Made in Heaven, his reply shocks me.

“I don’t think people see them very often because I destroyed a lot of the works. I was going through a custody situation for my son, and Ilona kept trying to pull the work down to a level that it would be viewed not as artwork but as pornography, so I ended up just destroying most of the works because of that.” In other words, Staller was promoting the works as part of her own image and oeuvre – which is not surprising since they were as much pornography as art, whatever he says.

Still, he is proud of some of the works in Made in Heaven. “I think Ilona’s Asshole is a wonderful work. It’s really about acceptance of the self and the confidence to display one’s genitalia or display one’s asshole.”

In 1997 the art critic Robert Hughes pronounced a damning postmortem on Koons’s career in his book American Visions. Koons, he said, “was the last art star to be cranked out by the Manhattan mechanism”, a “starry-eyed opportunist”, his pseudo-Baroque sculptures a calculated and obvious attempt to manipulate collectors through their desire to be “challenged”. You might almost think that “Koons had psyched himself into thinking he was a latter-day Bernini. Or was it a pose? By now it hardly matters.”

It hardly mattered because, in the years after he exhibited the most intimate moments of his brief marriage, Koons faded from view. After the marriage broke down, he got involved in a bitter custody fight over their son. In the eyes of detractors – Robert Hughes is not the only one – Koons is a fake, a poseur, a sterile manufacturer of heartless kitsch. But portraying your love life in graphic detail and then being humiliated by the collapse of the relationship you vaunted does not strike me as the work of an arch-manipulator or an emotionless fraud.

Koons never let go of the idea that he could get Ludwig back. That estrangement from his now teenage son has become part of the meaning of his art. He was in a hole and he kept digging – by making art about his pain.

When his son was born, he became interested in the simple shapes and colours of the baby’s first toys. He set out to make art that a small child could relate to. But then events changed the meaning of the sculptures he planned. They became a way, in his imagination, of reaching out to the child he couldn’t see. “I was trying to make art that my son could look on in the future and would realise I was thinking about him very much during these times . . . that he can look and see my dad’s thinking about me, but to also embed in these things something that is bigger than all of us.”

In 1992, Koons started work on the Celebration Series. His plan was to create colossal reproductions of easter eggs, party hats, valentine hearts, balloon animals and other “celebratory” images in shiny coloured metal. It turned out to be hugely expensive, and his domestic crisis didn’t help. “I went through the divorce, the custody situation … the work was very expensive to create and it took longer than we anticipated so works were placed at less expensive amounts than what it cost even to produce.”

I ask about the emotional meaning of these works. “The sculpture Party Hat – that’s my son’s little birthday hat that he wore just one day before my ex-wife took him away.”

The Celebration Series was eventually completed and, in 2000, when it started to be shown in museums around the world, it immediately renewed and deepened his reputation, at least with those prepared to give him a chance. When you gaze into the reflective blue surface of his Cracked Egg, your own face and those of the other people going by float in a seductive yet spooky polished metal mirror; a perfection that has been broken open, leaving part of the shell on the ground. There’s an eerie power to these works that goes well beyond Koons’s claim to be a celebratory artist. They are joyous lamentations; broken mirrors of a world losing touch with its loved ones.

Koons, the man who fell in love with his own ready-made, has a haunting piece of emotional advice for us all. “Inanimate objects are great but they’re just inanimate objects and externalised images,” he points out after spending years trying to connect with a faraway child by making monuments to the infantile. All that matters in art and life is “actual human interaction”.

Koons seems to be constantly stretching, twisting, amplifying and reconfiguring the ordinary to make it strange. He has an eye for form, which he sees like his hero Salvador Dalí through a hypersexual filter. I show him a picture of Lips, a fantastically energetic painting he created in 2000 in which lips and an eye dance in the air with yellow pieces of sweetcorn. “That corn for me is a reference to Dalí. Dalí always loved corn … but if you put two kernels together you have an ass.” There speaks a sculptor.

Jeff Koons is an artist not of bland manufactured sheen but of edgy contradictions. On the one hand he wants to experience a world of innocent childlike gratification, of toys and party hats – he revels in telling me about his second marriage, six children in all, and two grandchildren from his older daughter, Shannon, 34. On the other hand, here is a man whose life was changed by his marriage to a porn star and her refusal to continue as his living art object.

It’s a tale of American demands: Koons is at once determined to be pleased like a child and hungry to be satiated as an adult. The Popeye Series continues this impossible quest. It is dedicated to showing a series of works based around metal sculptures of inflatable toys. There are inflatable dolphins, inflatable lobsters, all turned into metal. The lobster is a homage to Dalí’s Lobster Telephone. He tells me he identifies with Popeye’s motto – “I yam what I yam.” But on the cover he has designed for today’s G2, he emphasises Popeye’s muscular arm with its expanding tattoo of a tank. Is it a political comment? A phallic object? Both? It’s interesting, and ambivalent and American and ludicrous.

Jeff Koons is a brave and original artist. His art declares the weirdness of its materials, its themes, its maker and its public. He insists there is no irony in what he does. When he’s gone, this denial will be forgotten and he will surely be acclaimed as a satirist. He says his art is about liberation and acceptance and embracing the mainstream. Is it also a disturbing image of the modern world? “I really don’t believe in judgments; it could be looking at political systems, social hierarchies and all these areas.”

The very night after our interview, the death of Michael Jackson is announced. On the Friday I ask the sculptor of Michael Jackson and Bubbles for his comment. “We have lost a great artist.” But look at it. White faced and hugging his chimpanzee, Jackson is not portrayed as the talented song-and-dance man everyone seems to want to remember, but an icon of the banal. Perhaps Jeff Koons is a secret moralist. Perhaps he is a great artist and perhaps he is just a great symptom. Whatever he is he has an eye for the pathologies of our time.

• information@serpentinegallery.org

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Westminster Abbey gets makeover

Queen and Prince Charles kept abreast of £10m project to revamp historic church in time for diamond jubilee

Westminster Abbey is planning a spectacular £10m intervention in one of the most famous skylines in Britain, by building a corona – a crown-shaped roof – over the lantern that lights the heart of the church in time to celebrate the diamond jubilee of the Queen’s coronation in June 2013.

The Queen and Prince Charles have been briefed, but the dean, the Very Rev John Hall, said the project would only go ahead if it won public approval.

Hall, who has led planning redevelopment, including a further £13m visitor and conference facilities, said: “There will of course be some people who say: ‘Don’t change our skyline after all this time’, ‘how absurd’ or ‘how dare you tamper with this great beautiful work we know and love?’

“What we’re hoping is to demonstrate to people how the abbey has scarcely stood still in its long history. I don’t think we would go against the bulk of public opinion.”

The corona will be the most dramatic alteration in the profile of the building in a century. The pyramid dates from the 1950s, but architects have puzzled over how to finish the roof for 1,000 years.

Christopher Wren, who designed a tower and spire so heavy it would probably have brought the entire roof crashing into the nave, Nicholas Hawksmoor, who completed Wren’s work on the west front, and the Victorian architect Sir George Gilbert Scott, who replaced cliffs of crumbling stone on the north side, all had ambitious plans for the lantern.

It lights the most sacred part of the church, the crossing in front of the high altar where every monarch since 1066 has been crowned, and royal coffins, including the Queen Mother’s and Diana’s, have lain.

The church is a history of England in stone. The Bayeux tapestry shows the funeral procession of King Edward winding to the abbey. It holds the tombs of 16 other monarchs, including Henry III, who rebuilt the abbey; Henry VII, who created the magnificent Lady Chapel; and Edward VI, whose early death led to the reigns of the sisters buried nearby, Mary and Elizabeth.

Other monuments include those of Isaac Newton, scores of statesmen, and Poet’s Corner, with memorials to centuries of authors including Chaucer, Shakespeare and Dickens.

The abbey is a “royal peculiar” by charter from Elizabeth I, meaning that although it is part of the Church of England, the dean is independent of Canterbury and answerable only to the sovereign, and receives no regular government or church funding.

There is no design and no money yet for the corona; if the abbey decides to go ahead, an architectural competition will be organised.

The plans would also allow visitors for the first time into the triforium, a spectacular if dusty secret world 70ft above the nave, with a view described by John Betjeman as “the best in the world”.

A new lift, tricky to incorporate into a grade I building within a World Heritage site, would be needed to replace the present vertiginous spiral staircase tucked into an angle of Poet’s Corner.

The contents of the museum, presently housed in a medieval undercroft – including the world’s oldest stuffed parrot and centuries of eerily lifelike royal effigies– would go into this newly accessible attic, where there is already a museum of stone fragments from the abbey, known only to a handful of specialists.

The old museum would become a new visitor centre, and the plans include the first ever education centre in Dean’s Yard beside the choir school and a cafe; at the moment the only refreshment for millions of tourists each year is a tea stall in the cloister.

The abbey is exhibiting the plans until September in its Chapter House

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