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Now you’re talking …

Want to speak like a native but don’t fancy spending your entire trip in a classroom? These holidays combine lessons with activities and the chance to hang out with locals

French

Surfing: Biarritz

If only school could have been this relaxed. At a solar-powered surf camp in a 300-year-old farmhouse close to Les Casernes beach, near Biarritz, language lessons take the form of informal two-hour chats over beers in the afternoons. Mornings are spent riding the waves, and five days of surf lessons (for 1½ hours per day) are included. The camp has plenty of places for practising tenses in your free time – in the garden, hydro-pool, hammam, tree hut, canoe or hammock. Suitable for beginners and improvers.

• A week costs £606pp, including surfboard and wetsuit hire. 08445 020 445, golearnto.com.

Outdoor adventure: Verdon

Perhaps you’re more likely to remember new words if you learn them while scared out of your wits. A French immersion course in Moustiers, in the Parc Naturel Regional du Verdon, includes morning lessons (beginner to advanced available) in a converted hilltop monastery, plus afternoon exploration of the river Verdon by canoe, treks into the Garrigue with a forest guard, games of pétanque in the village square, dances at a bal populaire or viewings of French films, all accompanied by teachers to ensure French is spoken throughout. At the weekend, the adventuring ratchets up a gear with canyoning, rafting, kayaking and abseiling where no doubt you will learn the French for “Help!” and perfect your pronunciation of merde

• Course €1,670pp for 14 days, accommodation €458 per week, 0121 430 7660, experiencelanguage.co.uk.

Wine: Bordeaux

Many people’s language priority is being able to order food and drink. But imagine how impressive you’ll sound when you can not only stammer out “Un verre de vin, s’il vous plaît”, but are also capable of ordering a fine Bordeaux, commenting on its complexity of flavour and describing the time you visited the very vineyard where it was created. This seven-day French and Bordeaux wine course will set you well on the way to talking about terroir like a native, with four 45-minute sessions of French a day (there’s a test on day one to establish your level), three afternoon sessions on Bordeaux wines, including tastings at l’Ecole du Bordeaux, and excursions to Saint-Emilion and Médoc vineyards.

• Courses start 20 July, 17 August, 14 September, 12 October, £705pp. Homestay accommodation from £170 per week, flight from £115pp return. 0871 230 8512, statravel.co.uk.

Spanish

Walk the talk: Pyrenees

“When we visit my neighbour Hilaria’s vegetable garden, if you pick tomatoes, you’ll learn how to talk about them,” says Georgina Howard, who runs the Pyrenean Experience, a language course in the Baztan valley that teaches Spanish by living Spanish. Language tutors are always on hand to help guests in conversation practise while they ramble through the Pyrenean mountains, meet local farmers, visit bars and hamlets, have lunch with the neighbours or host parties at the seven-bedroom farmhouse, and generally live the Basque life. There are more formal morning lessons on a terrace, and weeks for beginners, intermediate and advanced speakers are run separately.

• Full board £850pp per week, 0121 711 3428, pyreneanexperience.com.

Surfing: Tenerife

Insted runs language courses in Austria, Spain and France that are combined with skiing or surfing. Its Tenerife course runs year-round from a central base in Puerto de la Cruz, a thriving town with busy bars and restaurants serving Latin American and African-influenced dishes. Minutes away from the classroom are the beaches, where the breaks have earned the Canaries the title “Hawaii of the Atlantic”. Accommodation is with a local family, or in an apartment sharing with other students from the course.

• Homestay with family from €165pp per week B&B in private room, €200 half board. Apartment from €165pp for private room. Two week minimum, €220 per week for the course. 00 33 450 530 366, insted.com.

Tango: Buenos Aires

“Bailamos?” is Spanish for “Shall we dance?” – as those returning from this trip will know. In the historic centre of Argentina’s capital, near the bohemian San Telmo district, pupils take a daily four-hour classroom lesson of Spanish, and Argentinian and Spanish culture, politics and history in groups of up to seven. Afterwards they don their dancing shoes to learn one of the world’s sexiest dances at a nearby milonga, or tango hall.

• Six nights including homestay with from £467pp, tango classes £4 per hour. Hotel accommodation available. Journey Latin America (020 8747 8315, journeylatinamerica.co.uk).

Portuguese

Capoeira: Brazil

Practise whirling your limbs to the moves of capoeira while learning to twirl your tongue around the Portuguese language on a two-week course combining the two in Salvador. Classes of eight study beginners’ Portuguese for 20 hours a week, then concentrate on the acrobatic Brazilian dance/martial art twice a week; both take place in a language centre. A samba lesson and cookery class are also included, and homestay accommodation is available so that you can practise over dinner (the language, not capoeira).

• Course £285 pp for 14 days, homestay accommodation from £89 per room per week. 08445 020 445, golearnto.com.

Italian

Food and cookery: Tuscany

For an indulgent foodie break with a side serving of language lessons, Sanctuary Villas puts up large groups of friends or two families in a luxurious converted farmhouse villa with an outdoor pool, sauna, steam room and Jacuzzi, near the medieval village of San Gimignano. The company can arrange extras including cookery classes with local chef Giuseppina and language lessons, taken in your villa, the garden which overlooks rolling, cypress-lined Chianti hills or wherever you prefer. Villa La Terme consists of two large houses, together sleeping 10 plus two children.

• From £5,824 per week (£69 pp per night) accommodation only, language lessons from £41 pp per hour with Sanctuary Villas (01242 547 902, sanctuary-villas.com).

Photography and cycling: Umbria

Northern Umbria is a very untouristy part of Italy, a bonus for language learners as locals are unlikely to revert to English when you chat, and because they have more time to do so. Guests at the Labbazia school in the Upper Tiber Valley will meet plenty of them on trips to local markets and bars in the nearby medieval villages, where they’ll put into practise all they learned that day in class (three levels available). There’s usually some sort of local pageant, dance or festival to attend, and many other activities are arranged on demand, from photography classes to tai chi, cycling or horse-riding.

• From €1,050pp per week, full-board at the agriturismo where lessons are held, including 20 x 45min lessons, transfers from Perugia and guided trips. 00 39 075 857 3004, labbaziaschool.com.

Greek

Beach and culture: Syros

On this two-week course at the OMILO centre on the Cycladic island of Syros, there are classes at the Pension Echo in Azolimnos (which is also one of the self-catering accommodation options) from 9.30am to 1.30pm each day. Then it’s time to hit the beaches right by the centre for swimming and sunbathing, before moving a short distance to the village’s lively tavernas. Excursions such as Greek dance lessons, museum visits, guided walks and local concerts are included and everyone goes along to a sociable first night meal. The island’s capital, Ermoupolis, an affluent harbour of neo-classical buildings, mansions, marble-paved streets and white houses, is 4km away.

• Catch a ferry from Athens. Next dates September, €590 for two weeks. Rooms from €35 per night. 00 30 210 612 2896, omilo.com.

German

Watersports: Bavaria

Lindau is a beautiful town on its own island in the eastern side of Lake Constance, with a historic medieval centre and pretty harbour. It’s a great base for learning German – after classes, pupils cool off by sailing and waterskiing on the lake, cycle around it or go on excursions to Meersburg, Salem Castle and Liechtenstein.

The Dialoge language school provides 20-25 lessons per week, and has a sports hall for basketball, volleyball and football games. Social evenings with barbecues, wine tastings and the cinema are arranged too.

• From €490 per week including accommodation with a host family or the school’s apartments, €330 without. 0808 234 8578, studytravel.com.

Arabic

Interaction: Cairo

Pupils of the Bridge Abroad programme will learn the Egyptian dialect (one of the easiest to pick up) as well as classical Arabic on a week’s beginners’ course in Cairo. The focus is on learning through interaction with some of the city’s 14.5million residents, after daily lessons in a school 15 minutes from the centre. Afternoons are spent among the throng, picking up more vocabulary in the souks, cafes and squares, and at lectures, concerts, cinemas and the famous sites.

• Three weeks (minimum) including accommodation costs from $878pp, $399 without accommodation, or from $711 per week private tuition, from $855 with accommodation. 0808 120 7613, bridgeabroad.com.

Japanese

Cooking and karaoke: Tokyo

Nowhere gives a culture shock like Japan, so throwing yourself into the local way of life is as important as learning the lingo if you are to have a hope of ever fitting in. Alongside a beginners’ course that also covers Japanese culture in a centrally-located school, pupils can take workshops on calligraphy, tea ceremonies, noodle cooking, judo and karate, and interact with native Japanese speakers on nights out bowling, to quizzes and, of course, singing karaoke.

• From $2900 for two weeks including accommodation with a host family, in student dorms or apartments with World Link Education (0046 5580 3720, wle-japan.com).

Mandarin

Live-in learning: Beijing

Moving in with your teacher would have been an abhorrent notion when you were a teenager, but now it could be the best way to develop your language skills. Instead of trawling through a textbook twice a day, you can chat to your tutors from breakfast to bedtime while staying in their home on Go Learn To’s “home language courses”. These suit all levels and give the option of staying with your teachers, couples and families around Beijing as well as informal tuition. Guests get a set of keys and are free to come and go as they please, but are usually invited to join in with their teacher’s life, to meet relatives and friends, go shopping and explore the nightlife.

• Seven days from £864pp per week full board, 08445 020 445, golearnto.com.

Russian

Culture: St Petersburg

Russia is one place where you’re unlikely to pick up much of the language without some serious tuition. A course that includes 20 lessons per week in St Petersburg is a good place to start. After class, it’s time to absorb the city’s rich culture at its many sites.

Bi-weekly group activities include visits to the theatre and ballet and to other places such as the riverside city of Novgorod. Go in the summer and you can join in many vercherinkas – small parties with caviar, vodka and Russian folk songs. Beginners’ and advanced courses are available, but everyone is asked to learn the Cyrillic alphabet before arriving.

• Two weeks from $2,170pp all inclusive, but excluding flights, languagesabroad.com.

• Don’t miss our free phrasebooks every day next week, plus Italian the week after

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Ten best budget restaurants in Leeds

As the Leeds Loves Food festival kicks off today, Tony Naylor picks the city’s 10 best value eateries

Food blog: know Leeds? Share your tips on the best places to eat for under a tenner

1. Piazza By Anthony

Widely regarded as the city’s best restaurant, Anthony’s is an expensive, esoteric experience. However, chef-owner Anthony Flinn has wasted no time in launching a number of affordable spin-offs. The latest, Piazza, has transformed the ground floor of Leeds’ iconic Corn Exchange into a day-time cafe, restaurant, bar and gourmet food store. You may bemoan such gentrification (this building previously housed a grungy Camden-style market), but you can’t quibble with the quality. Good meat and cheese platters (£7.50/ £8.50) are served with excellent bread from the on-site bakery, while, in their precision, the best restaurant dishes – pork rib chop with good gravy, fondant potato and a dainty roasted apple (£8.95) – reflect Flinn’s high standards, without the hefty price tag.

• Cafe dishes from £2.99; restaurant mains from £8.25. Corn Exchange, Call Lane, +44 (0)113 247 0995; anthonysrestaurant.co.uk

2. Nation of Shopkeepers

This newcomer is one of those thoroughly modern multi-purpose bars. Late-night, it hosts DJs and live bands, and attracts the indie/art school set. By day, it serves creditable food, good imported beers and real ales, and keeps an older generation of urban hipsters happy. The artisan pies are regional favourite, I’s Pies; there’s a selection of “homemade comfort food classics”, like macaroni cheese, on the menu; and NoS do a pretty decent handmade burger (from £4.90). Breakfast is served until a civilised 1pm.

• Meals from £4.60. 27-37 Cookridge Street, +44 (0)113 203 1831; anationofshopkeepers.com

3. Hansa’s

Open since 1986, Hansa Dabhi’s vegetarian Indian is a Good Food Guide regular, widely praised for its cleverly spiced Gujarati cooking. Try the channa, a complex, flavoursome dish of whole red chickpeas with red chillies and cinnamon, washed down with a bottle of the ale-like beer, Bangla. Takeaway available.

• Mains from £5.25. 72-74 North Street, +44 (0)113 244 4408; hansasrestaurant.com

4. Salvo’s Salumeria

Salvo’s, a buzzy, family-friendly Italian, has been turning Leeds on to proper pizza and authentic pasta for over 30 years. Enthusiastic owners John and Gip Dammone keep the concept fresh, and, in 2005, they opened a neighbouring deli-cafe, Salvo’s Salumeria, where they delve deeper into regional Italian cooking. With its piadine (flatbread) wraps, hot daily specials, like pappardelle with venison ragu, and its wide selection of deli treats (such as roasted artichokes, Neapolitan pickles, numerous cured meats and cheeses – any four for £6.95), the Salumeria is a boon for the budget gourmet, and well worth the short schlep from the city-centre.

• Salads and hot dishes from £5.95. 109 Otley Road, Headingley, +44 (0)0113 275 8877; salvos.co.uk

5. Salt’s

With its solid wooden counter, cake stands and high, packed shelves, this deli has the feel of an Edwardian fine food store. Equally, in its ethos, Salt’s harks back to a time when things were done properly. Soups and specials are cooked fresh daily; all meats, eggs and vegetables are quality Yorkshire produce. Near to several hotels (Malmaison, Jury’s Inn, Travelodge), Salt’s breakfast menu may be particularly useful to travellers. Skip the Ferme des Peupliers yoghurts, and try their sausage butty: fat, moist, well-seasoned pork and leek bangers on a terrific home-baked ciabatta (£2.35).

• Sandwiches from £2.45; salads from £3.65. 14 Swinegate, +44 (0)113 243 2323; saltsdeli.co.uk

6. Art’s Cafe Bar

More Paris than Pudsey, this relaxed bar-bistro is a popular spot with local young professionals. Mains on the à la carte generally top £10, but the lunch menu (12pm-5pm) offers sandwiches, salads and platters for £6.50. The Yorkshire Plate includes Wensleydale with a terrific sweet tomato chutney, a leaf salad with a good, sharp mustardy dressing, bread, marinated beetroot, a robust venison terrine and slices of a similarly gutsy pork pie.

• Lunch plates, £6.50. 42 Call Lane, +44 (0)113 243 8243; artscafebar.co.uk

7. The Cross Keys

Locally sourced, seasonal British food – ” … not some generic, homogeneous ‘gastro pub’ menu offering Thai spiced fishcakes … ” – is the remit at this handsomely refurbed 19th-century pub. While not cheap per se, there are bargains to be had if you choose carefully. The daily chef’s specials – such as a coarse rare breed pork and prune terrine, with slices of spiced and pickled pear (£5) – are substantial snacks; while some mains, such as the sausages with bubble ‘n’ squeak (£8.95), are good value at under a tenner. Each Sunday, the Keys also offers various sharing roasts with all the trimmings, such as leg of lamb (six people, £85). Good beer selection, too.

• Mains from £8.95.107 Water Lane, +44 (0)113 243 3711; the-crosskeys.com

8. Fuji Hiro

There is a Wagamama in Leeds, but if it’s fresh, zingy noodles you’re after, then savvy locals will point you towards this Japanese favourite. Local super chef and fan, Anthony Flinn, swears by the yaki-udon (thick noodles with shitake mushrooms, prawns, chicken, vegetables and sliced Japanese fishcake, in curry oil), while the beef ramen comes with flash-grilled, still pinkish steak and a tasty stock that really comes to life as a fiery chilli sauce melts into it.

• Mains from £7.25. Merrion Centre, 45 Wade Lane, +44 (0)113 243 9184

9. Box Pizza

A takeaway pizza joint of Michelin star provenance – co-owner Henry Vigar has headed starred kitchens, and currently runs Notting Hill’s Kensington Place – the stone-baked pizza bases are authentically thin and properly charred, while the fresh dough has a lively spring and good chew to it. They’re huge 13-inch jobs that could easily feed two, if not three, particularly if you chuck in one of BP’s side dishes, say, rocket salad or panzanella (£3.45). Choices range from a basic margherita to a ‘Mexican’ (grilled chicken, jalapenos, smoked chilli salsa etc.) that would raise eyebrows in Napoli.

• Pizza from £4.95. Unit 3, The Triangle, 2 Burley Road, +44 (0)113 244 5544; boxpizza.co.uk

10. Pickles & Potter

This deli-cafe’s modus operandi is simple. Where possible, everything is done in-house, from home roasting all meats to making their own chutney. Where they can’t do something, making bread, say, they ask an expert, in this case Leeds-based French baker, Thierry Dumouchel, to do it for them. At lunch, there’s a queue for P&P’s hefty eight-inch torpedo-rolls, and salads like chickpea, halloumi and sweet potato. Next door, people sit around (think: a Leeds version of Friends’ Central Perk), reading or chatting over tea and cakes. P&P’s almost fudge-textured chocolate brownie (£1.95) is a seriously delicious adult treat. Notably friendly, helpful staff.

• Sandwiches from £3.40; hot dishes from £5. Pickles & Potter, 18-20 Queens Arcade, +44 (0)113 242 7702

• Leeds Loves Food festival (2-5 July)

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Which UK town has the best food?

If we’re all to be holidaying in the UK this summer, where should we go for the best all-round eating?

With the pound weak and Britain counting every penny, this year – it’s predicted – will be a boom year for British holiday destinations.

Consequently, the media will soon be scouring Britain for new, foodie-friendly locations to profile, and inevitably dub ‘the new Ludlow’. Forget the sunscreen this summer, it’s all about the Zantac.

The perfect gastro-destination, however, is a complex organism. It’s not just a matter of food. For all its Michelin stars and local ‘slow food’ culture, Ludlow, like the Ribble Valley, wouldn’t be half as appealing if it wasn’t located in the lushest of lush countryside, with all that offers. Whitstable wouldn’t work if it was a suburb of Swindon; and Abergavenny doesn’t because while it may have the Walnut Tree and a great food festival its centre is an identikit British high street. It’s just like being at home.

It’s not just a matter of restaurants, either. Cartmel has a newsworthy one, and a good deli, but little else to recommend it, certainly in food terms. Likewise, Bray is home to two of the best restaurants in the world, but, in all other respects, it’s a small, dull home counties housing estate; and an eye-wateringly expensive one at that. For a place to thrive as a foodie destination, it also needs good pubs, good hotels and B&Bs, good food shopping and plenty of places to fritter away the time around the one blow-out meal of the weekend.

In the north-west, the tipsters are putting their twopenn’orth on Ramsbottom, and not just because – and what a gift this is to the marketing wonks – its name is said to mean ‘valley of the wild garlic’. Rugged rather than pretty, this West Pennine town nonetheless has the views; the local attractions; the farmers’ market; an annual chocolate festival; decent independent food shopping; and even – make sure you’re sitting down for this – its own steam railway.

More than that, it also has a clutch of cafes and restaurants doing admirable, even award-winning things. In the Chocolate Cafe; the Cultured Bean (Lancashire Life’s readers’ choice, 2007/8); and The Lounge – a spin-off from Rawtenstall’s excellent Dining Room – there is a solid casual dining strata. Sanmini, meanwhile, a new South Indian restaurant in an old gatehouse, is currently the subject of much excited chatter.

Top of the heap, however, is Ramsons. As a restaurant, it is the definition of idiosyncratic. The most recent refurbishment saw it decorated with incongruously racy wallpaper, made up of fragmented nude photography; while opinionated owner Chris Johnson revels in his dictatorial reputation – see below on this link. Unfashionably, he does not believe the customer is always right. Guests are refused table salt or well-done meat, and vegetables (in keeping with Ramsons’ broadly Italian culinary ethos) are served only as an intermediate course. As Johnson once told Restaurant Magazine: “Do you go into Gucci and tell them how you want a handbag made? No.”

If Johnson wasn’t so passionate about sourcing exquisite raw ingredients (from wild garlic foraged locally to salad leaves from Milan’s markets); and did not employ a chef as talented as Abdulla Naseem, then his strident formula might not work, but it does. Almost 25 years in, Ramsons is the current Good Food Guide readers’ choice, and crucial leverage in attempts to establish Ramsbottom as a true gastronomic destination.

But what about you? Where will you be stuffing your face this summer? Is Topsham the hidden gem we should be talking about, or is the Isle of Wight too easily overlooked? Does Marlow really cut it for a foodie weekend away (it has two or three good restaurants, but little else), and where do we all stand on the Rick Stein retail outlet previously known as Padstow? Oh, and whatever happened to all that talk about Alnwick?

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