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Posts Tagged ‘Snowdonia’

Forget the ferry

There’s something special about escaping to an island – even if you don’t need a boat to get there. Annabelle Thorpe picks a dozen British gems that you can reach by car or on foot – perfect for a day trip or a summer weekend away

1 Burgh Island, Devon

Despite its isolation, this island is all about glamour – 1930s glamour, to be precise, evoked by the art-deco hotel of the same name. Cars can’t reach the island at all but you can walk there at low tide or hitch a lift by sea tractor at other times. The island lies 250m off the south coast of Devon, close to the seaside town of Bigbury. There is an extensive network of footpaths across the island and a pub, the Pilchard Inn, as well as the hotel, which is most famous for its links to Agatha Christie, who used the setting for two of her books, Evil Under the Sun and And Then There Were None. It’s dressy and fun but very pricey, with doubles from £280.

• 01548 810514; burghisland.com

2 Isle of Sheppey, Kent

Twitchers and those in search of old-fashioned bucket-and-spade pleasures should head to the Isle of Sheppey, which combines long stretches of shingle beach with tranquil marshland. Avocets, owls and flocks of curlews and plovers are all easily spotted at the RSPB-managed Elmley Marshes, while families will enjoy Leysdown, which boasts safe shallow beaches. It’s ideal day-trip territory, but to make a weekend of it, the best bet is the Abbey Hotel (01795 872873; abbey-hotel.net), just outside Sheerness.

• tourism.swale.gov.uk

3 Hilbre Island, Cheshire

Take a picnic and a flask of coffee and settle in for a day of serious birdwatching on Hilbre Island, a Site of Special Scientific Interest in the middle of the Dee estuary. It’s worth the mile-long trek at low tide to see the grey seals, curlews and oystercatchers that call the island home. Hilbre is renowned as one of the best places in the country to see storm petrels, and in late summer the rocky landscape teems with terns, who come to the island to breed. There are no facilities on the island, although the Hilbre Telegraph Lookout Station has been renovated, and is open on selected dates.

deeestuary.co.uk/hilbre

4 Walney Island, Cumbria

Most islands have something of an old-fashioned atmosphere, and Walney feels as if it hasn’t changed in decades. Linked to Cumbria by a road bridge, it lies just half a mile from the town of Barrow-in-Furness and is home to two nature reserves, with more than 250 types of bird and 400 species of moth and butterfly. There are good coastal walking routes, and some of the best spots in the UK for kite-surfing. The best place to stay on the island is the Browhead Hotel (01229 473600; browheadhotel.co.uk), which offers comfortable, family-run accommodation.

walney-island.com

5 Anglesey

It’s worth the drive to get to Anglesey; latticed with cycling paths and walking routes, edged with gorgeous sandy beaches and home to several renowned gastropubs and boutique hotels, it’s ideal for a romantic weekend away. The picturesque town of Beaumaris makes a great base, and is home to a dramatic medieval castle and Victorian pier, as well as one of the island’s most famous pubs, Ye Old Bulls Head Inn (01248 810329; bullsheadinn.co.uk). Alternatively, hole up at the rurally located Neuadd Lwyd (01248 715005; neuaddlwyd.co.uk), a luxurious country house B&B that also offers fantastic suppers, and has breathtaking views across to the mountains of Snowdonia.

visitanglesey.co.uk

6 Nags Head Island, Abingdon, Oxforshire

Ideal for a waterside pint, this island in the Thames consists of a pub (named after the island and dating back to the 19th century), plus a few ship’s chandlers and boat hire firms. It is linked to the mainland by two bridges and accessible by car – there is a large car park at the pub and plenty of picnic space on the island. Daily boat trips run to and from Oxford.

• Nags Head pub: 01235 536645

7 Isle of Skye

Towering peaks, lush valleys, long white beaches; Skye is all about natural drama – although the hearty outdoorsy vibe is mixed with a clutch of reassuringly indulgent restaurants and luxury hotels. There are challenging walking and cycling routes that traverse the peaks, while the bustling town of Portree makes a relaxing base, with galleries and boutiques to explore. Stop for a legendary haggis toastie at The Stein Inn at Waternish (01470 592 362; stein-inn.co.uk), and book into the Ullinish Country Lodge (01470 572214; theisleofskye.co.uk) in Struan, which serves spectacular seafood and has opulent bedrooms to match.

skye.co.uk

8 Canvey Island, Essex

Lying in the Thames Estuary and reached by road bridge from Benflett, Canvey Island has faded a little since its glory days in the early 20th century, when it became the fastest-growing seaside resort in the UK, but it still has a kitschly fun feel. Head to the Labworth Cafe (01268 683209) on the seafront, a 1930s design classic by Ove Arup revamped as a bistro, or head to West Canvey for birdwatching and a stroll across what is set to become a new RSPB nature reserve, after the charity purchased the land in 2006.

canveyisland.org

9 Holy Island, Northumberland

Steeped in myth and legend, Lindisfarne attracts an odd mix of new-agers and twitchers drawn, respectively, by the eighth-century monastery and ruined priory, and the tranquil nature reserve that is home to spectacular colonies of wintering birds. The island is famous for the Lindisfarne gospels – an illuminated manuscript dating back to the eighth century, now in the British Library – but the beaches are an equally big draw; long stretches of wild, unspoilt shoreline backed by dunes that are often surprisingly quiet. You can drive to the island, but only at low tide. Try the Crown and Anchor (01289 389215; holyislandcrown.co.uk), a welcoming pub with rooms.

lindisfarne.org.uk

10 Foulness Island, Essex

You’ve got to really want to get to Foulness, located along the Essex coast a few miles east of Southend-on-Sea. Home to just 200 residents, it is owned by the Ministry of Defence, and there are only two ways for the public to gain access to the island. The Heritage Centre opens from noon-4pm every Sunday between April and October, when the public have free access. At other times it’s necessary to call and make a reservation to eat at the George & Dragon pub on the island (01702 219460), which will take down your details, to be checked later by an MoD official at the checkpoint. It’s a desolate kind of place, with long stretches of empty beach and marshland, though rich in wildlife.

visitessex.com

Mersea Island, Essex

There’s an increasing “scene” on Mersea, reached by road bridge; the clean, sandy beaches have long been a draw for windsurfers and kite-boarders, but the growing number of good restaurants on the island, plus a clutch of diverse accommodation options mean it’s become a great place for an eccentric weekend away. There are ancient Roman sites to explore, a beautiful country park and as much seafood as you can eat: try the Mersea Oyster Bar (01206 381600) or the Company Shed (01206 382700), both of which offer fresh fish and oysters brought in by the local fleet each day. Follow it with a tasting at the Mersea Island Vineyard (01206 385900; merseawine.com), which offers beers from its microbrewery as well as wines to sample, and also has simple but comfortable B&B rooms.

mersea-island.com

12 Hayling Island, Hampshire

There are those on Hayling who claim that windsurfing was invented on the island, and it’s a great choice for a weekend break with teenagers; sailing, windsurfing and kite surfing are all on offer at the well-equipped watersports centre, and there’s an impressive skate park right on the seafront. Younger children are well catered for too, with an all-year funfair and a narrow gauge railway, and adults will appreciate the well-marked network of footpaths and cycleways as well as the long stretches of shingle beach. You can drive onto the island via a bridge, which can become congested in summer; stay at the Cockle Warren Cottage Hotel (02392 464961; cocklewarren.co.uk) for cosy rooms and lots of local knowledge.

hayling.co.uk

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Where to go wilder in Britain

Scotland and Dartmoor are the only places to legally wild camp in Britain. But there are a few sites that offer a more rugged camping experience. Dixe Wills picks the best.

Find more unusual campsites in tomorrow’s Guardian Travel

Ah, the call of the wild. Unzipping your tent in the morning to discover you weren’t dreaming – you really are camped beside some tranquil mountainside tarn, or in a clearing in a mighty forest, or on a cliff top high above a sparkling sea. With a proper hot summer still on the cards, what could gladden the heart more than getting out into the British countryside with a tent and soaking it all up?

Except, of course, it’s not as simple as that. The enlightened Scots, who have long enjoyed a relaxed attitude to land access, have made wild camping legal more or less anywhere (with a few sensible caveats) since 2003. In the rest of Britain, however, the practice is only officially sanctioned in one area – a section of Dartmoor.

The good news is that there’s now a growing number of campsites south of the border that have begun to offer campers the chance to savour the joys of off-piste camping. Where these sites differ from the norm is that rather than providing beautifully tended croquet-flat lawns, electric hook-ups and hardstanding, they offer chunks of topography just as nature crafted it, open fires on which to incinerate your marshmallows and, typically, a compost loo for those campers who feel no compunction to imitate what bears do in the woods. It may not be wild camping in its purest form but it’s a darn good imitation.

Wales leads the way in wilder campsites, with southern England hot on their heels. The phenomenon, it seems, is yet to catch on in the north of England.

Here’s a selection of the best sites where you can go wild in the country.

Gwalia Farm, Cemaes, Machynlleth, Powys

A large area around a lake is given over to camping at Gwalia, an organic farm that enjoys some quite breathtaking views of Snowdonia. Closer at hand, there are wild orchids, buzzards, kites, nightjars, glow worms, and all manner of aquatic life to look out for, including an otter. Drinking and washing water comes from a natural spring, there are earth loos in the woods and, should you wish to wander, the farm is on the Cambrian Way, Glyndwr’s Way and the Dyfi Valley Way.

• Gwalia Farm. Adult £4, child £2; +44 (0)1650 511377.

Graig Wen Arthog, nr Dolgellau, Gwynedd

Graig Wen admits to playing host to a conventional campsite but, for four weeks a year, visitors are also given the choice of going further afield and pitching in secret meadows, sheltered glades or a high bluff with views out over the Mawddach estuary. Streams and dry stone walls forge their way over the fields and through the woods, while the facilities are suitably wild – extending only to something described as “a tree bog compost toilet”. Best not to ask, I think.

• Graig Wen. From 25 July to 21 August; adult £7 (£10 on Fri/Sat); child £3 (£5); discount offered for backpackers/cyclists; +44 (0)1341 250482.

Gwern Gof Uchaf, Capel Curig, Gwynedd

One for high altitude campers, Gwern Gof Uchaf is an exposed site directly beneath Snowdonia’s famous Tryfan peak and is part of a working hill farm stretching for 750 acres above the Ogwen valley. The Carneddau and Glyders summits can also be tackled from this base camp which is open all year, so you can even introduce your tent to some snow (it’s wonderfully insulating, you know). Comfort comes in the form of hot showers, close by.

• Gwern Gof Uchaf. Adult £4, child £3; +44 (0)1690 720294.

Glyn Y Mul Farm, Aberdulais, West Glamorgan

The river Dulais runs through Glyn Y Mul’s 18-acre wood, making it a memorable location for a bit of communing with nature. The owners particularly welcome grub-eating survivalists to their Lone Wolf Campsite but are also happy to accommodate visitors who merely want to get away from it all. Best of all, should everything go pear-shaped with your attempt to create a shelter from mud filtered through the shells of beech nuts, you can crawl out of the woods for a hot power shower.

• Glyn Y Mul Farm. Adult £5, child £2.50; +44 (0)1639 643204

Camping Wild Wales, Trefin, Pembrokeshire

This is a site whose owners’ mission statement importunes visitors to slough off their urban selves, “strip away those outer layers and feel the breeze of freedom”, so chilling out and relaxing are pretty much compulsory. Lodged halfway between St David’s and Fishguard, just off the Pembrokeshire Coast Path, there’s plenty of room to spread out your shelter of choice or you can take refuge in one of their tipis.

• Camping Wild Wales. Adult £7, child (4-14) £3; +44 (0)1348 837892.

Hole Station Campsite, Highampton, Devon

There are 45 acres of meadow and woodlands at Hole Station but only twelve pitches, making it a little piece of heaven for those who agree with Sartre’s maxim that hell is other people. Approached down a long private lane in a sumptuous, yet quiet, corner of Devon, it’s little wonder that Hole railway station, from which the site takes its name, has long since given up the ghost. You can also rent a tent – very useful if you’re travelling light on the Devon coast-to-coast route, for which Hole marks the halfway point.

• Hole Station Campsite. £12 per pitch (inc. 2 people), extra adults £4, U16s £3, dogs £1. Camp fire kit £5; +44 (0)1409 231266

Yellow Wood Bush Camp, nr Hay-on-Wye, Herefordshire

The folk at Yellow Wood are very much in touch with their inner Ray Mears and offer all manner of courses on bushcraft and wilderness survival on their clutch of forested sites in the shadow of the Black Mountains. However, if you just want to bring along your tent, or string up a tarp or a hammock and do your own thing, that’s cool too. For that added wild touch, the precise location of their sites is not revealed until you’ve booked yourself in.

• Yellow Wood Bush Camp. Adult £5, child £3; +44 (0)7800 767519.

Ashwood Farm, East Grinstead, West Sussex

Proving that being within commuting distance of the capital is still no barrier to camping in the wilds, this farm near the Sussex/Surrey border provides a haven of sylvan tranquillity. It’s also a paradise for children who are free to race up and down the hill, build their own woodland wigwams, dens, shelters or fairy houses according to taste, or just idle away the hours on a tree swing. There’s also a big discount if you can arrive by public transport or under your own steam.

• Ashwood Farm. With car: adult £12; child £6. Without car: £8/£4. Fire kit £5. +44 (0)1342 316129

Dernwood Farm, Waldron, East Sussex

A small family-run farm, Dernwood has an 8-acre field in the woods in which you can pick your spot and another 60-odd acres of ancient forest to explore once you’ve set up camp. The only concessions to home comforts are a water tap and a recently installed loo in a nearby shed. For those who insist on being kept in touch with the outside world, newspapers can be delivered to the farmhouse, a ten-minute walk away. A fleet of wheelbarrows is also on hand for ferrying your gear through the woods.

• Dernwood Farm. Adult £6.50, child (5-15) £4.50, family (2 adults 2 children) £17.50; +44 (0)1435 812726.

And a final one for anyone who wants to try out a wild campsite in Scotland before heading off into the countryside beyond:

Duloch Hamlet, Inverkeithing, Fife

Offering what they euphemistically describe as “limited rustic facilities” (a sawdust toilet and a stand pipe), Duloch Hamlet is a mixture of clearings in woodland and meadows. There are fifteen acres of woods to get happily lost in and hides for watching badgers and deer. There’s also a herb garden if you fancy adding that final flourish to your al fresco feast, and a few pre-erected tents available if you prefer to travel ultra-lite.

• Duloch Hamlet. £6 per person; log kits £3; +44 (0)1383 417681.

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