Serving food can be a wrappers’ delight, says Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall

Christmas has come early because I’m calling on you to perfect your wrapping skills. You’ll be pleased to know this involves no shiny paper, fancy ribbon or battles with the Sellotape, and the rewards are far greater than a pair of novelty socks. This week, I’m focusing on fat parcels of delicious food, all wrapped up like a present on a plate.

Cooking en papillote (in parcels of paper or foil) was once all the rage. It appealed to those keen to cook without fat, but often, alongside the fat, they left out the flavour, too, resulting in unappetising concoctions with all the oomph of a floppy carrot. So this isn’t about low-cal cooking per se – though these dishes certainly aren’t the most sinful things you’ll ever put in your mouth – but more about celebrating a way of cooking speedily and simply, and sealing in as much flavour as possible.

Once you get into the swing of cooking this way, you’ll be creating tasty culinary cocoons of your own in no time. It’s speedy, so it’s ideal for quick midweek suppers, and it’s also potentially elegant enough for when you want to serve up something a little impressive, too – everyone gets to open their own package at the table, sending up a fragrant cloud of steam and, an added bonus, there’s no need for a separate sauce because each parcel contains its own tasty juices.

Baking parchment is the classic way to go. A double layer and careful crimping (fixed by a metal paperclip if you’re not entirely confident in your kitchen origami) will ensure no leaks, but foil works just as well; you can even use newspaper or filo. The other secret of success is a hot oven, at least 200C/400F/gas mark 6 – allow six minutes for shellfish, 10-12 for fish fillets and 15-25 for prime cuts of meat and poultry; cut any veg finely enough so it’s done at the same time. Apart from that, it’s a wrap.

Newspaper-wrapped bream (or other fish)

A great way of cooking over a fire or barbecue. The fish steams in its wet parcel, so it stays moist. You won’t get crisp skin, but you do get lovely, tender flesh. Serves two to four.

2 black bream (or grey mullet or trout), cleaned

A few bay leaves and thyme sprigs

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

1 lemon, plus wedges for serving

Lay each fish on some newspaper (three sheets if it’s a tabloid, two for a broadsheet) with a bay leaf and a thyme sprig both in the belly and tucked underneath. Put a few scraps of butter on top of and inside the fish, season with salt, pepper and a squeeze of lemon, then wrap it up so you have a snug parcel. Soak the parcels in water until wet through.

It’s important that the barbecue coals or embers of the fire are fiercely hot with plenty of burn time left, and that the grill over the barbecue has had time to heat up, too. Cook the parcels for 15 minutes, until the paper is charred and starting to burst into flames (if it catches fire sooner than you’d like, sprinkle with water). Unwrap carefully, trying to prevent newspaper ash falling on the fish flesh. Serve with lemon wedges.

Sardines in filo

A very tasty starter or light lunch. As an alternative, rub the sardines with harissa instead of the gremolata and caper mixture, and add a big pinch of cumin to the butter. Serves six as a starter, three as a main course.

Zest of 1 lemon, plus wedges

1 garlic clove, finely chopped

1 tsp capers, rinsed and chopped

6 40cm x 40cm sheets filo pastry

Preheat the oven to 200C/400F/gas mark 6. Mix the lemon zest, garlic, parsley and capers, spoon a little into the cavities of each fish and rub the rest over the skin. Brush a sheet of filo with melted butter, fold over and brush again. Lay a sardine in the middle at one end and roll up loosely, brushing the exposed side with butter as you go. Tuck the ends underneath and brush the parcel all over with butter. Repeat with the other fish and lay in a parchment-lined baking tin, leaving a bit of space between each one. Bake for 15-20 minutes until golden brown. Serve at once with lemon wedges.

Apricots with honey & star anise

Served with ice-cream or thick yogurt sweetened with honey, this makes an easy, pretty pudding. Serves four.

16 apricots

4 tbsp honey

Preheat the oven to 200C/400F/gas mark 6. Cut out four 30cm squares of baking parchment. Halve the apricots along the “seam” and remove the stone. Place eight apricot halves in the middle of each parchment square. Trickle over a tablespoon of honey, grate over some orange zest and pour over a tablespoon of wine (or orange juice). Place a scrap of butter on the middle of each apricot and put a star anise and two strips of vanilla in the middle of each parcel. Seal, place on a baking sheet and bake for 12 minutes, until the packets are puffed up and the apricots tender. Leave to cool slightly before serving.

Other good combos…

• Shaved fennel, a bit of butter, a splash of vermouth and some lemon zest is great with fillets of mullet, gurnard, bass or bream.

• Ginger, garlic, spring onion, chilli and soy with duck or chicken breast.

• A slosh of white wine, some garlic, thyme and a knob of butter with a handful of mussels or clams.

• Sliced pears with brown sugar, butter and nutmeg – serve with ice-cream or Greek yogurt.

• That old favourite, bananas in foil on the barbecue – make them more indulgent by cutting a slit in the skin and forcing bits of chocolate into the flesh before wrapping. A dash of rum wouldn’t go amiss, either.

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