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Posts Tagged ‘Weekend breaks’

Forget the ferry

There’s something special about escaping to an island – even if you don’t need a boat to get there. Annabelle Thorpe picks a dozen British gems that you can reach by car or on foot – perfect for a day trip or a summer weekend away

1 Burgh Island, Devon

Despite its isolation, this island is all about glamour – 1930s glamour, to be precise, evoked by the art-deco hotel of the same name. Cars can’t reach the island at all but you can walk there at low tide or hitch a lift by sea tractor at other times. The island lies 250m off the south coast of Devon, close to the seaside town of Bigbury. There is an extensive network of footpaths across the island and a pub, the Pilchard Inn, as well as the hotel, which is most famous for its links to Agatha Christie, who used the setting for two of her books, Evil Under the Sun and And Then There Were None. It’s dressy and fun but very pricey, with doubles from £280.

• 01548 810514; burghisland.com

2 Isle of Sheppey, Kent

Twitchers and those in search of old-fashioned bucket-and-spade pleasures should head to the Isle of Sheppey, which combines long stretches of shingle beach with tranquil marshland. Avocets, owls and flocks of curlews and plovers are all easily spotted at the RSPB-managed Elmley Marshes, while families will enjoy Leysdown, which boasts safe shallow beaches. It’s ideal day-trip territory, but to make a weekend of it, the best bet is the Abbey Hotel (01795 872873; abbey-hotel.net), just outside Sheerness.

• tourism.swale.gov.uk

3 Hilbre Island, Cheshire

Take a picnic and a flask of coffee and settle in for a day of serious birdwatching on Hilbre Island, a Site of Special Scientific Interest in the middle of the Dee estuary. It’s worth the mile-long trek at low tide to see the grey seals, curlews and oystercatchers that call the island home. Hilbre is renowned as one of the best places in the country to see storm petrels, and in late summer the rocky landscape teems with terns, who come to the island to breed. There are no facilities on the island, although the Hilbre Telegraph Lookout Station has been renovated, and is open on selected dates.

deeestuary.co.uk/hilbre

4 Walney Island, Cumbria

Most islands have something of an old-fashioned atmosphere, and Walney feels as if it hasn’t changed in decades. Linked to Cumbria by a road bridge, it lies just half a mile from the town of Barrow-in-Furness and is home to two nature reserves, with more than 250 types of bird and 400 species of moth and butterfly. There are good coastal walking routes, and some of the best spots in the UK for kite-surfing. The best place to stay on the island is the Browhead Hotel (01229 473600; browheadhotel.co.uk), which offers comfortable, family-run accommodation.

walney-island.com

5 Anglesey

It’s worth the drive to get to Anglesey; latticed with cycling paths and walking routes, edged with gorgeous sandy beaches and home to several renowned gastropubs and boutique hotels, it’s ideal for a romantic weekend away. The picturesque town of Beaumaris makes a great base, and is home to a dramatic medieval castle and Victorian pier, as well as one of the island’s most famous pubs, Ye Old Bulls Head Inn (01248 810329; bullsheadinn.co.uk). Alternatively, hole up at the rurally located Neuadd Lwyd (01248 715005; neuaddlwyd.co.uk), a luxurious country house B&B that also offers fantastic suppers, and has breathtaking views across to the mountains of Snowdonia.

visitanglesey.co.uk

6 Nags Head Island, Abingdon, Oxforshire

Ideal for a waterside pint, this island in the Thames consists of a pub (named after the island and dating back to the 19th century), plus a few ship’s chandlers and boat hire firms. It is linked to the mainland by two bridges and accessible by car – there is a large car park at the pub and plenty of picnic space on the island. Daily boat trips run to and from Oxford.

• Nags Head pub: 01235 536645

7 Isle of Skye

Towering peaks, lush valleys, long white beaches; Skye is all about natural drama – although the hearty outdoorsy vibe is mixed with a clutch of reassuringly indulgent restaurants and luxury hotels. There are challenging walking and cycling routes that traverse the peaks, while the bustling town of Portree makes a relaxing base, with galleries and boutiques to explore. Stop for a legendary haggis toastie at The Stein Inn at Waternish (01470 592 362; stein-inn.co.uk), and book into the Ullinish Country Lodge (01470 572214; theisleofskye.co.uk) in Struan, which serves spectacular seafood and has opulent bedrooms to match.

skye.co.uk

8 Canvey Island, Essex

Lying in the Thames Estuary and reached by road bridge from Benflett, Canvey Island has faded a little since its glory days in the early 20th century, when it became the fastest-growing seaside resort in the UK, but it still has a kitschly fun feel. Head to the Labworth Cafe (01268 683209) on the seafront, a 1930s design classic by Ove Arup revamped as a bistro, or head to West Canvey for birdwatching and a stroll across what is set to become a new RSPB nature reserve, after the charity purchased the land in 2006.

canveyisland.org

9 Holy Island, Northumberland

Steeped in myth and legend, Lindisfarne attracts an odd mix of new-agers and twitchers drawn, respectively, by the eighth-century monastery and ruined priory, and the tranquil nature reserve that is home to spectacular colonies of wintering birds. The island is famous for the Lindisfarne gospels – an illuminated manuscript dating back to the eighth century, now in the British Library – but the beaches are an equally big draw; long stretches of wild, unspoilt shoreline backed by dunes that are often surprisingly quiet. You can drive to the island, but only at low tide. Try the Crown and Anchor (01289 389215; holyislandcrown.co.uk), a welcoming pub with rooms.

lindisfarne.org.uk

10 Foulness Island, Essex

You’ve got to really want to get to Foulness, located along the Essex coast a few miles east of Southend-on-Sea. Home to just 200 residents, it is owned by the Ministry of Defence, and there are only two ways for the public to gain access to the island. The Heritage Centre opens from noon-4pm every Sunday between April and October, when the public have free access. At other times it’s necessary to call and make a reservation to eat at the George & Dragon pub on the island (01702 219460), which will take down your details, to be checked later by an MoD official at the checkpoint. It’s a desolate kind of place, with long stretches of empty beach and marshland, though rich in wildlife.

visitessex.com

Mersea Island, Essex

There’s an increasing “scene” on Mersea, reached by road bridge; the clean, sandy beaches have long been a draw for windsurfers and kite-boarders, but the growing number of good restaurants on the island, plus a clutch of diverse accommodation options mean it’s become a great place for an eccentric weekend away. There are ancient Roman sites to explore, a beautiful country park and as much seafood as you can eat: try the Mersea Oyster Bar (01206 381600) or the Company Shed (01206 382700), both of which offer fresh fish and oysters brought in by the local fleet each day. Follow it with a tasting at the Mersea Island Vineyard (01206 385900; merseawine.com), which offers beers from its microbrewery as well as wines to sample, and also has simple but comfortable B&B rooms.

mersea-island.com

12 Hayling Island, Hampshire

There are those on Hayling who claim that windsurfing was invented on the island, and it’s a great choice for a weekend break with teenagers; sailing, windsurfing and kite surfing are all on offer at the well-equipped watersports centre, and there’s an impressive skate park right on the seafront. Younger children are well catered for too, with an all-year funfair and a narrow gauge railway, and adults will appreciate the well-marked network of footpaths and cycleways as well as the long stretches of shingle beach. You can drive onto the island via a bridge, which can become congested in summer; stay at the Cockle Warren Cottage Hotel (02392 464961; cocklewarren.co.uk) for cosy rooms and lots of local knowledge.

hayling.co.uk

guardian.co.uk © Guardian News & Media Limited 2009 | Use of this content is subject to our Terms & Conditions | More Feeds


Dancing on the Danube

Belgrade’s clubs offer everything from Gypsy folk to Balkan bling, but whichever one you end up in, you’re guaranteed a good time

Saturday night and the boat I’m on is rocking, literally. Gypsy fiddlers leap on to tables and among dancers. As more people board the boat, moored on the Danube in Belgrade, one of the musicians launches through a window and towards the roof. For a moment I’m certain he will end up in the river but, no, soon he’s dancing above us, calling to people on the shore: come join the party!

Serbia’s capital may never be celebrated alongside Prague and Budapest as a beautiful eastern city, but Belgrade is defiantly No 1 when it comes to clubbing. And with the rise of two (very different) Serbian festivals – the rock and techno Exit festival and Guca, where hundreds of Gypsy brass bands entertain 300,000 revellers – Belgrade is now on the western European music fan’s radar.

Every night of the week it is home to a huge variety of clubs and parties. You can dance in old fortresses and on boats, in underground caverns and cocktail bars. And there’s a great array of musical styles to dance to: from ragged Gypsy fiddlers to blinged-out turbo-folk singers, from banging techno through heavy metal, and more, much more.

As with most emerging club scenes, it’s international DJs who are at the forefront. An increasing number of big-names are heading to Belgrade, drawn by the buzz of a city in love with dancing. Radio 1′s Gilles Peterson has been visiting the city for two decades and in October plays at Dom Omladine (domomladine.org), a spanking new and very large arts centre. Others include Brooklyn’s superstar DJ David Morales, who has graced the decks at the chic Club Magacin 3 and returns to headline the Pena Festival on 29 August at the Belgrade Arena.

But where to head to? The city is divided by the Danube and Sava rivers into New and Old Belgrade. As the former consists largely of housing estates built in the concrete brutalist style favoured by communist regimes (alongside ugly strip malls thrown up when capitalism took over), newcomers should look to Stari Grad (Old Town).

Belgrade avoids the mass tourism that has turned Prague into an adult Disneyland, but it does offer a pleasant mishmash of architectural styles and reasonably priced cafes, bars and restaurants. Stari Grad is also home to a large concentration of clubs.

Plato Jazz Club, in Belgrade University’s philosophy department, is a relaxed place to start your evening, enjoy superb views and browse in the city’s best bookshop. Nearby is Informbiro, a basement bar in the Belgrade Philharmonic building that specialises in urban dance music. From Informbiro, you can walk to The Tube (thetube.rs), celebrated for its house music and its large, dark corridors.

The Serb parliament lends the Tasmajdan Park area an upmarket tone. To see Serbia’s elite at play, go to Absinthe or a club called Mr Stefan Brown on the ninth floor of a glass tower opposite Tasmajdan Park. Here excellent cocktails are served and Belgrade’s beautiful people dance on tables as the city’s lights shimmer in the distance.

Techno and house took off here in the 1990s as a rebellious alternative to Milosevic’s regime, feeding off the city’s prodigious nervous energies. Belgrade has dozens of techno clubs – connoisseurs recommend Sound and Plastic – while long-established rock club Akademija (akademija.net) still pumps out the power chords.

But what marks Belgrade as an exceptional clubbing city is its waterways. Several kilometres of the Sava and Danube rivers are home to anchored rafts shoring up cafes, restaurants and clubs called splavovi (moored floats). Divided into three different groupings of boats, some splavs are open all year, although most do business only in summer. I found the area called Ada Ciganlija (Gypsy Island) most fascinating. Here boats recreate the atmosphere of a kafana: working-class bars where Gypsy musicians entertain at tables. The most notorious is Cmi Panter (Black Panther), which achieved a degree of international fame last summer when The Police, fresh from rocking Belgrade’s Arena, turned up to check out the boat band. A fire earlier this year destroyed the Black Panther, but the owner promises to relaunch. Gypsy Island’s boats offer knockabout musical mayhem with musicians right in your face.

The second area of floating boats, offering many different musical genres, spreads along the New Belgrade promenade of Sava. At the three-storey Lucas, moored on the Sava near Brankov Bridge (Brankov Most) in New Belgrade, turbo-folk reigns. This fusion of Serb folk song, Europop and Turkish Arabesque music was associated in the 1990s with Milosevic’s regime – Ceca, the genre’s Madonna, married warlord Arkan – and it remains unashamedly garish and trashy. A few hours spent here offers real insight into Balkan bling.

Across Belgrade, bar prices vary but are always reasonable compared with those of the UK, while smoking remains legal and popular. Entry to clubs is often free, the taxis are relatively cheap and there is little crime to speak of. Best of all, the Serbs are remarkably friendly. If Belgrade guarantees anything today it is good tunes, good value and great times.

• British Airways (0844 493 0 787, ba.com) flies Heathrow-Belgrade from £263 rtn inc tax. Lufthansa (0871 945 9747, lufthansa.com) flies to Belgrade, via Munich, Frankfurt or Zurich, from Birmingham, Liverpool, Manchester, Newcastle and Glasgow from around £300 rtn. Stay at Le Petit Piaf (petitpiaf.com), doubles from €130 or Hotel Moskva (hotelmoskva.co.yu), doubles from €130.

• Garth Cartwright is the author of Princes Amongst Men: Journeys With Gypsy Musicians (Serpent’s Tail, £12.69).

guardian.co.uk © Guardian News & Media Limited 2009 | Use of this content is subject to our Terms & Conditions | More Feeds


Guide to British mountain biking

Susan Greenwood recommends her top UK routes for getting to grips with the sport


Guide to British mountain biking

Susan Greenwood recommends her top UK routes for getting to grips with the sport


TwiTrip to Brighton: the verdict

Benji Lanyado’s one-day Twitter adventure amassed 250 tweets, dozens of off-guide finds – and he even got to meet the local tweeters

Back in February, I visited Paris having planned nothing. Except, that Twitter would be my sole guide. Forty-eight hours later, I had stomped across the city and back, powered by hundreds of ideas generated by the good people of the Twittersphere. A few weeks later, the Guardian’s Anna Pickard ventured out on her own “TwiTrip” in San Francisco – Twitter HQ. And a few days ago, we brought the TwiTrip home … to Brighton.

During the course of the day, I received over 250 tips, from subterranean music venues to tweeted invites for me to help out with a Brighton local’s house chores. Here’s how it panned out:

The TwiTrip Tips

It started badly. The entire TwiTrip was pinned on the reliability of mobile internet, and, timed to perfection, my network provider managed to screw up its internet provision across the country. Thus the first tweeted tip I received was imbued with irony – “Try a guidebook. They never go offline.”

But the technology gods were smiling on me, and mobile internet was restored, so off I trotted to St Pancras. My first request was for things to do near Brighton station … and I was inundated. I decided to go with artistmaker‘s and greg_dreyfus‘s suggestions, admiring the vintage car collection in the ancient Brighton Toy Museum via the iconic Banksy graffiti daubed on a pub wall depicting two policemen snogging. Dionne and NickHS recommended following this up with a coffee Coffee at 33, so I duly obliged.

I began my march seawards via North Laine, admiring the packed shelves at cult store Dave’s Comics and grabbing a bite to eat in the heaving Hell’s Kitchen, as instructed by blog_brighton and electroweb respectively. Alas, I didn’t have time to pop over to wilsondan‘s house to do his hoovering. Next time, Dan.

Down at the beach, I found Brightonians sprinkled across the pebbles sunbathing, and a brave few hazarding a dip in the sea. Downatheel gave me the instructions I had been hoping for (I admit), and I sprinted for the Palace pier, where I stalked some old ladies hovering around the penny machines, and battled gamely for a packet of immovable Parma Violets.

Jodyraynsford rescued me from certain bankruptcy at 2p at a time, ushering me towards the Volks Railway, the world’s oldest operating electric line, where I sniggered maturely while gliding past the halfway point at Banjo Groyne and kept my eyes peeled for HussyBrighton‘s “fat naked men wearing trainers”.

It was beer time. Pjwhitehouse16 and ricard67 both recommended the Barley Mow, a cracking little neighbourhood pub in Kemptown, where boxes of latterday sweets sit innocently alongside the booze. I opted for a handful of Disco Disks and a caramel Freddo washed down with a pint of Harvey’s Bitter. Superb.

By far the most tweeted tip of the day was the Basketmakers pub, back in North Laine, another great local brimming with post-work drinkers, where the walls are coated in tins containing messages penned by punters. Fortuitously, a tipster from earlier in the day, NickHS, was sat at the bar, so I joined him.

The next tip was likewise matched with a real-life person to accompany the online recommendation. Jonathas had picked out a gig at subterranean arts space The Basement, where guests were stacked on large terraced stairs watching Richard Walters perform. I sat next to Jonathas and his girlfriend throughout.

Finally, a challenge. Chrisbillett tweeted that “you have to finish any day in Brighton at the Bee’s Mouth… I did as I was told, and dragged Jonathas and his girlfriend along, finding a pleasantly seedy nightspot with a DJ playing electronica as the bar filled up with one-for-the-road drinkers.

The end of another very fun TwiTrip, with plenty of things I wouldn’t have found without Twitter at my fingertips. And meeting some of the Brightonian twitterers was an unexpected highlight. Turns out the world’s hottest social networking site can be social offline, too.

• Benji Lanyado stayed at the Pelirocco Hotel (doubles from £90pn, +44 (0)1273 327055), as recommended by M_Hensh and smoxlington.

guardian.co.uk © Guardian News & Media Limited 2009 | Use of this content is subject to our Terms & Conditions | More Feeds


Riding the surf bus to Newquay

Georgia Brown takes the Big Friday bus down to Cornwall for a weekend of surfing



The Guardian guide to UK hotels

Use our interactive map to find your ideal place to stay – as reviewed by our expert Sally Shalam